USK Conferences, International Conference On Patchouli and Essential Oil Research Innovation 2023 (IConPEORI-2023)

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Aceh Patchouli Oil Light Fraction Resulted from Molecular Distillation as Active Component of Antiaging Serum
Syaifullah Muhammad, Nadia Isnaini, Nasrul Arahman, Hizir Sofyan, Khairan Khairan, Essy Harnelly, Zulfahrizal Zulfahrizal, Farid Mulana, Elly Sufriadi, Ernawati Ernawati, Friesca Erwan

Last modified: 2023-10-17


Aceh patchouli oil is purified by molecular distillation to obtain a light fraction and a heavy fraction. Purification uses a batch system and is carried out through two stages. In the first stage, 300 grams of crude patchouli oil is fed into the sample flask and distilled under certain operating conditions (distillation temperature = 125oC, condenser temperature = 5, 10 and 15oC, rotation speed = 80 rpm and vacuum pressure = 1, 2-3 and 6-8 mbar). The first stage of the distillation process produces a light fraction and a heavy fraction. In the second stage, patchouli oil is fed into the sample flask and distilled under operating conditions (distillation temperature = 140oC, condenser temperature = 5, 10 and 15oC, rotation speed = 80 rpm and vacuum pressure = 1, 2-3 and 6-8 mbar). Purified patchouli oil was analyzed using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) Shimadzu Prestige 6400 and Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) Shimadzu QP2010 Ultra. Patchouli Oil Light Fraction (MNFR) was then formulated in the form of antiaging serum and various tests are carried out. Based on research that has been done, it is known that patchouli oil contains phytochemical compounds that are very diverse, ranging from groups of terpenes, sesquiterpenes, aldehydes, to fatty acids. The phytochemical component that determines the quality of patchouli oil is patchouli alcohol (C15H26O) from the sesquiterpene compound group which has a high boiling point of about 287oC at a pressure of 1 atm. In Light Fraction Patchouli Oil (MNFR), the PA content is 11.6%. as well as several other phytochemical compounds such as alpha-guaiene (20.17%), delta-guaiene (16.08%), alpha-patchoulene (11.3%), and Seychellene (12.52%). In MNFR no fatty acid compounds were found. From the study, the lower the operating pressure, the higher the quality of patchouli oil as measured by the parameters of refractive index, specific weight, acid number, and patchouli alcohol content. Bioactivity of MNFR nanoemulsions examined using 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay for antioxidant activity and dopachrome technique for antityrosinase activity showed that antioxidant and antityrosinase activity of the formulation gradually decreased under experimental conditions of stress. Furthermore, antioxidant activity showed an excellent effect (%inhibition: 81.66 ± 0.77) than antityrosinase activity (%inhibition: 54,389 ± 1,151). From the study of in vitro release, the penetration of patchouli active components into the skin takes place well, the release process continues to increase in the first 6 hours and to be stable for up to 24 hours. The release kinetics data obtained follows the Higuchi model, which means that the active substance of light fraction patchouli oil diffuses well into the skin after use in the period of 6-24 hours. From the results of clinical trials, it is proven that serum formulations using MNFR are effective as antioxidants and antiaging on human skin.


patchouli oil, light fraction, molecular distillation, antiaging serum.